Damond Motorsports Focus ST Engine Oil Cooler Kit Install Guide
Keep track temps down with the Damond Motorsports Mazdaspeed3 Engine Oil Cooler Kit.
Here is our install guide.
WARNING:
By installing this Product, you understand that:
The buyer/user assumes all risk as to quality, performance and use of these products and agrees to hold DD2, Inc. DBA Damond Motorsports (“DM”) and its representatives not responsible for any injury, loss, or damage; including any and all incidental or consequential damages arising from the sale, installation, or use of our products.
Many parts are intended for “OFF ROAD ” and “RACING” applications only. It is suggested that State and Federal emission regulation be checked, to see whether or not this product complies with those laws. Read through the instruction guide thoroughly, before attempting this install. Do not install any components while the engine is running or shortly after the car has been running. Give the car some time to cool down. Failure to install this product correctly, or failure to remove/reinstall existing components correctly, could result in poor running conditions, or even component and engine failure, which the sole user of this product is responsible for. The install instructions are intended to guide you on how to install this product properly. Only an experienced mechanic should perform this install. In addition, DM, and its representatives reserve the right to modify and or discontinue parts without notice. If you the user/buyer of this product do not agree with the above, contact DM immediately, to discuss a possible return of our product for a full refund minus shipping costs, and other fees.
Parts included:
- 1 x Damond Oil Cooler Adapter Plate
- 1 x 19 Row Oil Cooler
- 1 x Oil Thermostat
- 1 x Oil Cooler Bracket
- 1 x Oil Thermostat Bracket
- 1 x Oil Adapter Gasket
- 2 x -10AN to -8ORB fittings
- 2 x -8ORB Plugs with 1/8" NPT threaded sensor ports
- 4 x preassembled -10AN lines
- 4 x -10AN to -10ORB fittings
- 6 x 1/8" NPT plugs (1 spare)
- 7 x M6x20mm bolts
- 2 x M6x50mm bolts
- 1 x M8x25mm bolt
- 9 x M6 locknuts (1 spare)
- 1 x M12x50mm bolt
- 1 x Hose Barb Fitting
- 2 x Hose Clamps
- 17 x rubber washers (1 spare)
- Additional hardware and zip ties
Tools needed:
- Safe means of lifting and supporting the vehicle: jack and jack stands, wheel ramps, or lift.
- Torque Wrench
- 1/2" or 3/8" Socket wrench or breaker bar
- 19mm socket or wrench
- 15mm socket or wrench
- 10mm socket
- 8mm socket
- 10mm wrench
- 1" wrench, or adjustable wrench
- 15/16" wrench, or adjustable wrench
- 3/16" Allen key or socket
- M6 x 1mm thread tap
- M8 x 1.25mm thread tap
- Drill with 1/4" bit
- Hose cutter or sharp knife
- Teflon tape
- Assembly lube or engine safe grease
To begin, prep the vehicle by performing the following:
- Jack or lift the vehicle and place securely on jack stands
- Remove the undertray
- Drain the engine oil and oil filter
- Drain the engine coolant
- Disconnect the battery (FAILURE TO DO SO MAY RESULT IN ELETRIC SHOCK AND/OR VEHICLE DAMAGE)
- Remove the front bumper and upper air duct
Prep the oil cooler and components.
Prep the cooler by installing the bracket as shown. Place 12 x rubber washer total 1 between each mounting hole on the cooler and the bracket and 1 under each bolt and each nut. Lightly tighten the bolts securing the bracket to the cooler. Tighten until the rubber washers start to crush ever so slightly. Do not tighten beyond this.
On the oil cooler, attach the 2 shortest lines with 90 degree fittings as shown. Lightly coat the fittings with oil prior to tightening. NOTE: Use 2 x 10AN wrenches or similar as shown; failure to use a wrench to secure the oil cooler may result in cooler damage. Tighten until tight with the lines both pointing along the length of the cooler. Approx. 30-35lbs/ft.
Prep the thermostat by installing the 4 x 10AN flare to -10ORB fittings. Lightly coat the fittings with oil prior to tightening. Using a 10AN wrench or similar, tighten until tight. Approx. 30-35lbs/ft. If using a sensor, thread the sensor into the tstat in accordance to the sensor manufacture's specs. Install the provided 1/8” NPT plugs in the remaining holes if applicable (apply thread sealant if not on plugs). These plugs are a tapered thread, tighten until snug.
Next mount the bracket to the tstat as shown using the 2 x M6x50mm bolts, nuts, and rubber washers. Place the rubber washers in-between the bracket and tstat, and on the backside of the nuts as shown.
Attach the tstat to the cooler lines next as shown. Be sure that the lines are attached to the In/Out To Cooler ports on the tstat.
The last bit of parts prep:
Prep the Damond Oil Cooler Adapter Plate by installing the 2 x 10AN flare to -8ORB fittings and 2 x -8ORB plugs as shown. Lightly apply oil to the threads of the fittings and the o-rings prior to tightening. Tighten until tight. Approx. 20-25lbs/ft. If using a sensor, thread the sensor into the plug fittings in accordance to the sensor manufacture's specs. If not using a sensor, use 2 of the supplied 1/8" NPT plugs (apply thread sealant if not on plugs). These plugs are a tapered thread, tighten until snug.
Next attach the remaining lines to the adapter. The longest line will go to the OUT marking on the adapter, and the next longest line to the IN marking Lightly coat the fittings with oil prior to tightening. Using a 10AN wrench or similar, tighten until tight. Approx. 30-35lbs/ft. (ignore the addition fitting on the plate shown in the photo)
With the front bumper off, start by first tapping the oil cooler mounting holes. The smaller hole on the left will need the M6 x 1mm tap, and the larger hole will need the M8 x 1.25mm tap.
Drill into the factory crashbar to later mount the thermostat bracket. You'll need to drill a hole into the rear of the crashbar by going through the center of the two holes as shown.
Remove the coolant lines from the factory cooler. Note, more coolant will drain from these lines, so be sure to have a catch pan ready.
On the line coming from the thermostat, you'll need to cut and remove some excess hose. Here's an image of how much hose to cut from the factory hose. Basically you'll need to cut the 180 degree loop from the hose.
Using the included plastic hose barb fitting, connect the newly cut OE hose to the other OE hose and secure the hoses with the provided hose clamps.
Remove the cables from the starter terminals to access the oil cooler mounting bolt. IF THE BATTERY HAS NOT BEEN DISCONNECTED, DO SO PRIOR TO REMOVING THESE CABLES, OTHERWISE ELETRIC SHOCK MAY OCCUR.
Alternatively, you may remove the entire filter housing to gain better access without having to remove the starter cables. (NOTE: a new filter housing gasket will be needed). To do so, remove the 4 x 10mm bolts securing the filter housing to the engine block, and remove the filter housing and cooler together. Remove the cooler, and clean the top of the filter housing of any debris or oil.
Remove the 15mm bolt from the factory cooler, and remove the cooler from the vehicle. Please note, more oil and coolant may leak from the factory cooler.
Using engine assembly grease or similar engine safe grease, lightly dab or coat a few spots of the included gasket and place the gasket into the grove on the adapter plate. The grease is used to help secure the gasket in place while installing. Do not use RTV or gasket maker. Apply a light coat of oil to the exposed side of the gasket.
Place the Damond Oil Cooler Adapter plate on top of the filter housing. MAKE SURE THE TOP OF THE FILTER HOUSHING IS FREE OR DEBRIS AND OIL. Align the dowel into the dowel hole and thread in the provided bolt and washer. Tighten to 25-35lbs/ft.
If the filter housing was removed re-install the filter housing to the engine block with a new gasket. Thread in the 4 x 10mm bolts and then tighten to 15lbs/ft.
Route the lines over to the driver-side of the vehicle as shown.
view from the driver-side headlight area:
Remount the starter wires to the starter.
Mount the cooler to the car at the holes tapped earlier. The included black spacer will go between the cooler bracket and the M8 tapped hole to take up the void of space(blue arrow). a Rubber washer can go between the cooler bracket and the M6 tapped hole. Tighten these bolts snug with medium strength thread locker. Do not over tighten.
Mount the tstat bracket to the crashbar using the provided M6 bolts and nuts where the holes were drilled previously. If you have an aftermarket crashbar, you'll need to create your own mounts. Cable ties can be used to secure the bracket to an aftermarket bar.
Lightly coat the fittings in oil and attach the hoses. NOTE: The hose coming from the “OUT” port on the Damond Adapter Plate goes to the “in from engine” port on the tstat. The Hose coming from the “IN” port on the Damond Adapter Plate goes to the “out to engine” port on the tstat. Tighten until tight. Approx. 30-35lbs/ft. NOTE: best to use an adjustable wrench to secure the tstat against the rotation of the tightening TQ. Not doing so may result in bending the bracket.
Now the oil cooler system should be fully installed and the oil and coolant system on the vehicle should be closed. Add engine oil to the crankcase until showing full on the dipstick, then add approx. .75 – 1qt additional oil. Add engine coolant or antifreeze to the coolant reservoir.
Reconnect the battery.
Prime the engine DO NOT START, by pressing the start button with both the gas and clutch fully depressed. We recommend letting the engine crank for 30+ seconds without starting it to fully build oil pressure. If installing on a freshly built never started engine, you may need to prime for up to 60 seconds to build pressure. Once primed, exit the vehicle and check for leaks and check the oil level. Add oil if needed.
Now the vehicle may be started. Once the vehicle is started, let it run for moment (just a few minutes) while you inspect for any oil or coolant leaks. If no leaks are present, turn off the engine and inspect the oil level. Add oil if needed.
Wait for the engine to cool and top off the coolant reservoir. Next bleed the cooling system. Mazda’s guide for coolant system bleeding that we use on Fords as well:
- If the water temperature gauge rises too high, stop the engine and decrease the engine coolant temperature to prevent overheating. Then, verify the malfunctioning part and repair or replace it.
- If the engine coolant level in the coolant reserve tank is below the L mark during engine coolant air bleeding operation, stop the engine, and after the engine coolant temperature decreases, add engine coolant. Then, resume the engine coolant air bleeding operation.
- Start the engine and idle it until the thermometer indicator is in the center when the engine is at below 1,500 rpm.
- Bleed the air by following the procedures below. At this time, be careful of the coolant temperature to prevent overheating. NOTE:
- If the accelerator pedal is depressed continuously for a specified time, the engine speed may decrease to the idle speed. This is due to the fuel cut control operation, which prevents overheating, and it does not indicate a malfunction.
- Run the engine at 2,500 rpm for 2-3 min , 2 times .
- Run the engine at 3,000 rpm for 5 s , then idle.
- Repeat steps (1), (2) twice.
- Stop the engine, and inspect the coolant level after the coolant temperature decreases (water temperature gauge indicates ‘C' or less).
- Check the coolant level.
- If it is low, refill the coolant into the coolant reserve tank up to the F mark on the tank.
Reinstall the remaining components that were removed in the initial prep stages, and the install should be completed! Enjoy the benefits of both lower oil and coolant temps, especially on the racetrack!